How to Visit Cuba in 2023 (As an American)


Updated last on 06/12/2024

By Tristan Chavez

My Guide to Visiting Cuba as an American

Cuba is an island-nation in the Caribbean about 100 miles off the coast of Florida in the USA but feels like another world. After a communist takeover during the Cold War in the 1950s relations between Cuba and USA have been extremely tense even at the best of times. It is even labeled as a state-sponsor of terrorism by the United States State Department with the full swathe of sanctions that comes with. Despite all this Cuba has a grip on the American conscience leading to a legendary status. The Cuban refugees of Miami have a huge impact on pop-culture and the Godfather II plants romantic images of Cuba in the American psyche. What is it like on the ground? What does the average Cuban think of their own government? the USA? Is it the communist paradise some tout it to be or the crumbling impoverished backwater others pitch it to be? I had to see it for myself and the answer lies somewhere in between but I must say none of its greatness is a result of the totalitarian grip of the government. Instead the spirit of the people and their resolution in an alluring setting make it the travel draw that it is.

The famous Malecon of Havana featured in the Godfather II and James Bond
The famous Malecon of Havana featured in the Godfather II and James Bond
General Info
Keep in mind that I am a citizen of the USA and I write this for Americans planning on visiting Cuba but a lot of the advice can serve an international audience as well. As an American I needed a unique tourist card that is colored pink when entering Cuba that acts a visa. This can be picked up at the departure gate to Cuba as boarding begins. Here Americans have to declare why they are visiting Cuba as we cannot just visit normally. If you are an American reading this most of us visit under the "Support for the Cuban People" category. This means that we cannot spend money at government establishments such as hotels and restaurants. This is where the casas particulares come in to play that I spoke about earlier. Also this means you have to maximize your interaction with Cubans by doing cultural activities like museums and tours which luckily is what most tourists want to do. This means you cannot just relax at a resort in Cuba as an American.

A Cuban woman with a Cigar
The indominable spirit of Cuban people in the face of adversity must be seen to be believed
What to See?
Havana is one of the most legendary cities for travelers. Walking through the city with the old city crumbling around you makes it feel like a movie; living your Godfather fantasies. Though tourists (me included) find the decay charming, I could not imagine the struggle of its citizens to combat the decomposition with minimal resources. With forts and beautiful buildings Havana's reputation precedes it. Viñales is another shocking location not many know about with unique cliff-like mountains all around a rural picturesque tobacco-growing valley it is a must see. Trinidad is another unique destination and it was my favorite Cuban city as the cobblestone streets and horse-drawn carts feel more like medieval Spain rather than even colonial Cuba and especially more than a 21st century city. Finally the forts in Havana and Santiago de Cuba are some of the most magnificent that Spain constructed.

Food
Americans also cannot eat at government restaurants so search for paladares that are ran by private families or try the rare street food which unfortunately is not very tasty as many ingredients cannot be found in Cuba due to the economic situation. For example the most common food to be found is Cuban pizza which is a pizza dough sometimes with tomato sauce and then government cheese on top and for an extra price some ham. The best food I had eating out was at a high-end paladar in Cienfuegos but they range in price and quality. Casa particular hosts will have good advice and some will also cook lunch and dinner if notified in advance and all will either include or allow you to order a breakfast of fruits, bread, cheeses and omelette for about 5$. Also cooking classes are a great way to support local Cubans while getting a good meal and learning about traditional Cuban cuisine. When I was there a food crisis was in full swing and quality was in short supply as most local industries have been ground into nonexistence and the country relies on imports. The wonders of communism...

My Cuban host making arroz con pollo in a cooking class
My host making arroz con pollo in a cooking class
Money
Perhaps the most nerve-wrecking part of traveling in Cuba for Americans is the lack of being able to access banks. This means you have to have all the cash you need when entering the country. This was something I was constantly on the lookout for. I separated my money into 5 different piles hidden around my bags and wallet so that if one was lost or stolen I would still have some money to make it across the country. This is very important to think about. Any guides on the internet or in print that talk about two currencies are a few years out of date. The CUC was a tourist currency that was discontinued and now the CUP is the only currency. The exchange rate between USD and CUP is in constant flux but when I was there it was 1 USD to 180 CUP.

Internet
Cuba's internet access mainly revolves around using Wi-Fi cards that you have to buy and then load with time as you use it. I just used my phone's international plan which ended up being way more expensive due to Cuba's particularities with companies from the USA. Also the Internet can be shutoff at a moments notice like when I was there and a protest in the East led to a country-wide blackout.

Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Havana
The first steps into Cuba are usually on the western part of the island flying into José Martí International Airport. From here many local taxis should approach you but find an official one which should cost 25 - 30 USD to get to the city. Also you can exchange currencies with a driver (the exchange is constantly changing but for me it was 180 CUP to 1 USD).
Day 2 & 3: Havana
Havana is Cuba's largest and most monumental city and as a result it deserves at least 2 days minimum to even graze the surface of the city. It is a good place to get your bearings in Cuba as well since it hosts the largest number of travelers and it is by far the most cosmopolitan Cuban city and it has facilities that will be forsaken as you move further from Havana. Things to see include La Habana Vieja, El Malecón, the forts of Casablanca across the bay, El Capitolio and so much more. Consider doing AirBnb tours (money goes straight to helping the people instead of the government) such as salsa lessons, cooking classes (which I did) and walking tours.

Havana street feels like a movie set rather than an actual city
Havana sometimes feels like a movie set rather than an actual city
Day 4: Valle Viñales
Viñales is a must on a Cuba itinerary as it gives an insight into the farming class of Cuba set in an awe-inspiring mountainous valley reminiscent of something out of Southeast Asia and it can be done as a day-trip from Havana. This is the tobacco heartland of Cuba which is one of its premier exports. I did this through an AirBnb tour but if I had to do it again I would want to do a homestay in the countryside. Most tours will include a sample of a Cuban cigar, horse ride, stop at a view over the mogotes (limestone karsts) and a trip through an underground river.

The famous view of Viñales Valley
The famous view of Viñales Valley
Day 5: Cienfuegos
Today, traveling either from Viñales or Havana would be a good time to start heading east. Cienfuegos is in a large natural bay and it is made up of two parts: the city center and Punta Gorda. The city was designed with French inspirations as it was founded by French immigrants with large boulevards. The city center is a nice place to stroll around with museums and colonial architecture but the best thing to do in the city is watch the sunset amongst the mansions on the peninsula of Punta Gorda. The city has good tourist infrastructure with restaurants and casas particulares.
Day 6: Trinidad
Just traveling to Trinidad from Cienfuegos is a good time as the colectivo drivers have a common route that your casa particular host could inquire about that takes you to El Nicho national park. This is a Cuban natural wonder that has many refreshing springs and waterfalls that will cool you off especially if you're like me and visit in the summer (Just don't be like me and forget to bring swim apparel). Also I think I was mostly lucky but road construction meant that on the way to Trinidad the group of travelers that I was with in my colectivo and I were able to visit the Valle de los Ingenios. This was a famous sugar producing region of Cuba from the slave era now known for its white textiles and giant watchtower. Finally the actual city of Trinidad was my favorite in Cuba with the cobblestone streets and bright building facades in a remarkably friendly town with good infrastructure. Trinidad has everything and it feels like a timewarp to centuries in the past. If you have time, spend an extra day here.

The cobbled streets and colonial facades of Trinidad
The cobbled streets and colonial facades of Trinidad
Day 7: Santa Clara
Now, truth be told I did not go to Santa Clara but it would be best to go to here from Trinidad instead of making the mistake I did and try to go further east from Trinidad. Instead I would recommend a night in Santa Clara, the resting place of Che Guevara. It has a museum to the communist rebel and a nice colonial district but aside from that I cannot really speak to the city's character.
Day 8: Camaguey
Either from late at night in Santa Clara or before dawn in the morning, make your way to Cuba's third largest city. The story is that the city was designed like an Arab city to confuse invaders in a maze. As a result the old town is not a colonial Spanish grid but winding streets and it does have a distinct character as a result. Thisis also further east than most tourists go in Cuba so tourist-class restaurants are nonexistent and accommodation options are quite sparce but on the upside that means that there are no other tourists.

Riding inside a vintage car in Cuba
A costly mistake caused me to have to take a private taxi from Trinidad to Sancti Spiritus but the classic cars have a kind of empowering effect
Day 9 & 10: Santiago de Cuba
Cuba's second largest city and the capital of the East definitely has its own character as a result of the African influence on the city from Haitian descendants and other African diaspora communities. The city is most famous due to being brandished on the side of every Bacardi rum bottle and as a result you can visit the old factory near Santiago's port. It also has a lot of historical ties to the Cuban Revolution with the Cuartel Moncada which was the military barracks from where the revolution began with an assault by Fidel and speaking of whom, you can visit his grave in the Santa Ifijenia Cemetery. Furthermore the main city's main plaza of Parque Cespedes and the colonial town are also good sites in the city. Popular nearby trips include the town of El Cobre with ties to Santería and the massive Castillo del Morro; my favorite fort in the country. Santiago and the Oriente in general feels much more African/Caribbean than other Cuban cities and from what I heard many here feel forgotten by the politicians of far-away Havana.

Santiago's famous El Morro Fort
Santiago's famous El Morro Fort last saw combat in 1898 in the Spanish-American war
Days 11-12: Baracoa
Unfortunately some transportation issues and limited time made it so that I could not visit Baracoa, Cuba's oldest city. From what I understand is that it is a bulwark of culture in the oriente of Cuba. It supposedly has the best food culture of Cuba and has historically been extremely isolated. Due to this isolation it takes a day to get there from Santiago and a day to return.

Day 13: Beach Day
This is something else I did not do as I did not feel like it was "supporting the Cuban people" and I am not the biggest beach person to begin with. If you do go to Cuba the beaches are amazing from what I heard. Varadero near Havana, Cayo Santa María from Santa Clara or Playa Ancón from Trinidad any part of Cuba will have a world-class beach. Just fit this day anywhere in the itinerary provided and it will somehow work.
Day 14: Depart Cuba
From Santiago de Cuba there are international flights most conveniently to Miami. Just get an official local colectivo to drop you off at the turnoff to the airport and walk the last mile or take a taxi the whole way. Then be glad to have wi-fi and return to the 21st century as you lift off from this one-of-a-kind island.
Accommodation
As this is written from an American perspective the only option to stay in Cuba was a Casa Particular but even if you are reading this and not an American this option is still the best in terms of ethics, uniqueness and cultural exchange. They range in price but typically start at 15$ but those prices will get you a much nicer room than most other places in the world. A casa particular is a privately owned homestay that typically is a converted family home opened to visitors. These are great in my opinion as they give visitors the chance to actually speak with and support the Cuban people. They all have the same sign/symbol in front and can be booked beforehand or at a moments notice. Cuba's tourist networks means that by staying at one casa particular they could give recommendations and call a casa at the next location you want to go or a taxi driver could do the same. For booking accomadation and even tours beforehand AirBnb is an invaluable resource.

One of the nice casa particulares I stayed at in Cuba
One of the nice casa particulares I stayed at in Cuba
Safety
Cuba's safety issues do not stem from any violent crime. In fact it may be the safest Latin country in terms of violent crime; probably the only benefit the country has reaped from communism. Instead visitors must be on the lookout for jineteros: the name for Cuban scam artists. They are very resourceful and frequent tourist hotspots in Cuba. They will follow and use very interesting methods to scam tourists into buying them drinks or just getting money. Jineteros were the biggest drag on my enjoyment of the island because they made it really difficult to strike a conversation with people as I always had to gauge whether someone was being friendly or trying to get money from me. Furthermore always settle on a price before getting a mototaxi, taxi or bicitaxi ride. Especially as Americans can not withdraw more money from ATMs than what we bring with us. This led to me running out of money at the tail end of my trip as a bicitaxi driver in Santiago practically robbed me of all but 5$.

Transportation
Transportation was a bit difficult when I was in Cuba. Gas imports from Cuba's allies had slowed and the island was only meeting somewhere around 70% of demand leading to inflated price and scarcity. For most destinations it is easy to get a colectivo from one place to another by telling your casa particular host your next destination. Typically the colectivos leave the cities around 8:00 full of tourists with the same itinerary. These colectivos could be a yellow cab but sometimes you can get lucky with one of those old-fashioned iconic vintage cars but be prepared as these are prone to break downs which happened to me and they are a rough ride on Cuba's unmaintained roads. East of Trinidad Cuba changes a bit as the tourist crowds thin out. This means that the country's flagship and only tourist bus service -Viazul- comes in handy. Though infrequent and I found poorly timed they are the only way to travel east of Trinidad and it is good practice to buy tickets at least 24 hours beforehand as demand supersedes supply. These buses are well air conditioned, a bit too much so but often run behind schedule and there is no way to get real-time updates. One time my bus was 2.5 hours late when I was already supposed to leave nearly at midnight.

Taking a ride in one of Cuba's vintage cars
Taking a ride in one of Cuba's vintage cars keeps transportation interesting
Religion
I did not know where else to put this section so it is going here. though nominally Catholic many Cubans now practice Santería which is a folk-religion that blends the West African vodou practices of the former slaves with Spanish Catholicism. The rituals are secret but I took a local guide to the Havana suburb of Regla to learn about it and saw some interesting practices for myself. In the East the community of El Cobre is another hot-spot of the faith. Religion is seen as a form of protest against the government and the growth of Santería has exploded in the past 5 years as people turned to it in tough times. It has no centralization but the best way to describe it is that there is a mirror for every Catholic saint in an Orisha which is a west African deity/spirit.

A Santería offering ceremony in Regla
A Santería offering ceremony in Regla
That should cover everything but if I left anything out or you have any comments, feel free to leave a comment below. Cuba is a unique destination and it is also a difficult place to travel for United States citizens with limited information out there hopefully this guide helps.

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tristan.travels, 2022

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