My Travel Guide to India’s Golden Triangle & Rajasthan

India’s golden triangle has long been the most traveled tourist route of northern India. The cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur form a triangle and are easily connected by India’s railway as a nice introduction to the country. Since this route ends in Jaipur which is the capital of Rajasthan many tourists will continue on through the largest Indian state. With the popularity of this route I figured it would be worth it to write a guide for this itinerary which will see visitors see the magnificent palaces, forts and temples of the region but most importantly and iconically: the Taj Mahal which many people find worth the trip to India itself.

General Info
India has a different reputation depending on who you talk to and I would say it is all true; all different pieces of the puzzle. India has mountains, plains, deserts, beaches and just about everything else. At the same time it has crowded cities but it also has isolated small towns and underrated natural sights. This guide focuses on the highlights of the north and it does include many large cities but with some of the most spectacular sights like the Taj Mahal and Hawa Mahal. The golden triangle is a long-running northern India highlight and it is a great way to break into this dense country. While India may not be the easiest place to travel around, hopefully this guide will help some people break into this colorful country.

What to See?
Delhi, Agra, Jaipur. The three highlights of the golden triangle have the Taj Mahal, Pink City and all of Delhi’s attractions too numerous to list in both the old and new city. Beyond that every Rajasthani city seems to have its own storied old city crowned by a magnificent palace that would be worth a visit to a country all on their own. Udaipur’s lake palace, Amber Fort, Jaisalmer Fort, Chittorgarh fort, Mehrengarh Fort and more crown the old fiefdoms of India’s largest state. Religious sites in Pushkar and Bikaner; not to mention the Thar desert that forms the natural barrier between Pakistan and India which is worth a camping trip. This is a sights heavy trip so be prepared!

Itinerary
Day 1: Arrive in Delhi
It will take a while to get your bearings on India and Delhi in particular. Everyone is out to get you here so be aware of scams and avoid tuk-tuks. Keep to the surprisingly clean and efficient metro system.
Days 2-4: Delhi
A lot of people will say just to skip Delhi due to how dirty it is and how many dishonest people are concentrated in the city but I actually think it has some of the best monuments. The Jama Masjid, Red Fort, Qutub Minar, Lotus Temple, Akshardham, Delhi Gate, Humayun’s Tomb and much more are iconic structures worth visiting. Since everything is spread out in the city I recommend 3 days to see everything. I did it in 2 but don’t do that to yourself.

Days 5-6: Agra
Take the train in the morning to Agra with free meal service included as you pass the plains of Haryana. Of course the Taj Mahal is the most iconic place in all of India is here. In addition to the Taj don’t miss out on Agra Fort, Itmud Ud-Daula and sunset across the river at Mehtab Bagh. All of these are easily accessed with the new metro that was under construction when I was there. Optionally take a bus or taxi as a half-day trip to Fatehpur Sikri.
Days 6-8: Jaipur
The final stop of the traditional Golden Triangle tour but the first for Rajasthan. The highlight here is the pink city which has the Hawa Mahal and city palace but also nearby is the best part of Jaipur, the Amber Palace and its surrounding forts. I enjoyed the atmosphere here as I could start letting my guard down from scammers prevalent so far in Agra and Delhi. Not saying they don’t exist but they are not nearly as numerous and aggressive the further into Rajasthan you will go.

Day 11: Pushkar
You know how I just said scammers start to taper off in Rajasthan? This is the exception. I would recommend skipping here if you are short on time as this is really just a place for Hindu pilgrimage and relaxation. Cars are banned near the lake this city is built around and I’ve written an article already on my experience and what to see so check that out if you want more details here!
Days 12-13: Udaipur
Giving you about a day to transit from Pushkar to Ajmer and on to Udaipur and another to enjoy the city will help with visiting the main sites of the city of lakes. Now is when I began to really be able to relax in India without fearing of scammers and crowds. The city palace and lake palace are the main sites but this is an artistic city that is best just to walk around and enjoy. I also would recommend visiting Chittogarh fort as a day trip from here if the schedule allows.
Day 14: Jodhpur
My 2nd favorite city in India is at the edge of the desert and is best known as the blue city. The old town is uniform in this color scheme and it has the most impressive city palace in my opinion in terms of how it blends in with the cityscape. It is compact enough to see most sites in a day but I wouldn’t blame anyone for spending another day here. Sunrise and sunset are especially spectacular in this city.

Days 15-17: Jaisalmer
My favorite Rajasthani city is the golden city; an entirely sandstone creation in the middle of the Thar desert approaching the Pakistani border. I recommend 3 days here because at least 2 of those should be designated for a camel or jeep safari where you sleep in the desert. Many tour providers are available to set this up which was the highlight of my whole trip to India. Other than that it has one of the last forts still to be inhabited and it is generally just a beautiful and safe city.

Day 18: Bikaner
This often overlooked city caps the Rajasthan tour. Of note is the rat temple in nearby Deshnoke. Even if thousands of free roaming rats aren’t your thing, the Seth Bhandashah Jain Temple and medieval havelis and Junagarh Fort are worth a visit. You will probably feel like the only tourist in this friendly and quiet city.
Day 19: Depart Delhi
Take a breath after navigating Indian Railways and arrive back in Delhi to fly out or continue on somewhere else after Bikaner such as Punjab or the mountains further north, or start heading south to Mumbai, Kerala, Goa, etc, or east to visit Varanasi and Kolkata which are all huge tourism magnets outside of the scope of this guide.

Accommodation
Kind of anything you can think of at any budget or level of luxury is available. Cheap hostels at less than 10USD to rooms in royal palaces at several hundred dollars. If the budget affords it I would recommend at least one night in a heritage hotel which will cost more but it’s an experience in itself. Just look up Indian heritage hotels and where you’ll visit and pick the best palace that comes up.

Safety
It’s hard to really generalize as India is huge and diverse but the north is known for being less tame than the south. Scammers are always constant concern and headache. Use uber if you can and always settle on a price before getting in a taxi/tuk-tuk. Also make sure that the driver is actually taking you to where you want. On several occasions in Delhi I was told the road was closed to my hostel but there was always a conveniently placed tour operator nearby that the drivers would take me to. Actually, never take a tuk-tuk in Delhi just use the metro or an uber. Luckily the further from Delhi generally the better it was. Single female travelers should be a lot more aware though, a general machismo is omnipresent in India and boundaries of personal space are challenged. I did meet several solo female travelers who had no incident but also it is hard to ignore the many trip reports and headlines from foreign women in India.

Transportation
Please get the Indian Railways app beforehand. It is super helpful for tracking trains, finding your platform number and booking beforehand (which is very necessary). Indian railways was actually hardly delayed and quite organized compared to my preconceptions. Granted I never rode in the unreserved class which is cheap but it is the source of the images of cramped and uncomfortable carriages. Get to the stations about 30 min before or earlier. This would help you find the track number using the Indian railways app or one of the boards that are regularly being updated. The trains don’t stop for long and sometimes you may have to jostle to get onboard. Try buying as far in advanced (only through the official Indian Railway website or app) as possible as the trains to fill up. Buses are available to book through hostels or online and run quite often between cities. Seeing how they drive is quite fascinating itself. Finally the tuk-tuks or “Indian helicopter” is what a lot of people want to at least try out. Just be prepared in case you are scammed on one. I would recommend sticking to uber where tuk-tuks can be booked also.

Currency
The Indian Rupee has stayed somewhere at an exchange rate where 1 USD is about 80 - 85 rupees for many years but as always this is subject to change. ATMs are readily available around the country but a large percentage of restaurants and even street food stalls have the option of online payments through a number of apps that simplify things. Most places accept card as well. So good luck as you embark on your trip to this colorful and diverse country which is now has the most people in the world!